For an ultimate eating experience, The Pass restaurant is a must

Opened only four months ago, The Pass restaurant at South Lodge Hotel, Lower Beeding, near Horsham, is a revolutionary new concept that has already achieved a coveted three AA stars.

Visit it just once and it will stay in your memory for a lifetime, not just for its gastronomic perfection, but also for its unique visionary approach to eating.

This new 22-cover restaurant is situated in the heart of the hotel's kitchens, with flexible seating overlooking the cooking and preparation areas so that diners can watch the meticulous preparation of their meals across the room and at close quarters on screens.

Head chef is talented Matt Gillan, whose previous experience includes Restaurant Gordon Ramsay in London and Midsummer House Restaurant in Cambridge. He offers a selection of five, seven and nine course tasting menus, adapted for both lunch and dinner.

Each dish can be accompanied by a flight of wines chosen specifically for individual dishes by the hotel's sommelier. In all there are 250 wines on hand that have been personally selected, and blended specifically for requirements.

Eating from one of the taster menus with an accompanying wine flight is an unforgettable experience- in fact pure gastronomic excellence. The wines, which are detailed on the menu with each course, enhance food flavours to the full and going from one taster course to the next is sheer pleasure and anticipation.

The artistry and presentation of food is superb, and as far as possible locally supplied seasonal produce is used.

On our recent visit, my husband and I floated through seven courses- some mixed and matched from the nine course menus-in total awe of the quality of food and outstanding wines.

I started with a veloute of white bean, salmon tartare , lemon oil, washed down with a red Saumur-Champigny 2006 from the Loire, while Tom's choice was Jerusalem artichoke veloute, roast scallop, sweetcorn with a light white Vouvray.

They were a deliciously light introduction to meal with the frothy veloute sauce a perfect complement to the main ingredients.

The delights continued for me with roast scallop, braised port belly and celeriac remoulade, accompanied by an Egon Muller riesling, while Tom enthused about his spiced tuna, enhanced by carpaccio, grapefruit coulis, sesame dressing and guacamole, with a pinot noir from New Zealand that drew out the flavours.

We both savoured terrine of ham hock, served with baby artichoke, fig compote, balsamic jelly and butternut squash which followed as a prelude to our fish courses.

There, Tom's choice was delicate halibut with a tempura of squid, wilted baby gem, chanterelles, borlotti beans and apple cream served with a perfectly pitched Veramonte chardonnay from Chile.

My more robustly flavoured fillet of John Dory was well matched by an unexpected tortellini of oxtail, with baby gem, enhanced by sharper caper and lemon flavours. The accompanying Italian Gavi di Gavy, Tacchino was a well chosen partner.

Our main meat courses were masterpieces. Tom's sliced loin of lamb was served with chick pea fritters, braised lamb neck, sausage and aubergine puree, with a fitting companion of a Vacqueyras from the Rhone.

My ballotine of Gressingham duck, served with a duck parcel and creamed marjoram cabbage was outstanding, enhanced by the memorable Spanish wine- Roija, Crianza, Lan 2003.

Then on to delectable and unmatchable desserts. First, vanilla panacotta, ginger crumb, popcorn broth was served, light and tangy, which refreshed the palate and paved the way for the piece de resistance.

In our case this was chocolate marquise, with milk ice cream, chocolate biscuit, lemon confit and lemon oil served with a wonderful grenache noir, Maury. Rich and yet piquant- this dish had all the deep flavour of sumptious chocolate but lemon flavours were its enimatic partner, enhanced by the grenache noir.

The verdict? A meal of perfection, outstanding in quality, artistry and rich in complementary flavours, with a wine flight that is an unforgettable and integral part of the total experience. Service was flawless.

And vegetarians are not forgotten, with a Vegetarian Experience of up to nine courses, again accompanied by a carefully selected flight of wines.

There are special prices for each gourmet menu, according to number of courses, and similarly for wine flights to accompany each- but the average cost for dinner is approximately 100 a head including wine. It is well worth every penny.

Menus are varied monthly and a tasting menu is also available for breakfast served from 7.30-10am. The Pass is open Wednesday-Sunday for lunch 12-2pm and dinner 7-9.30pm, with a no table turning policy.

For more information or to book, contact 01403 891766.